Pruning Roses

Knockout roses have been all the rage with our three years of drought. Recent historical rains have stressed all roses with some black spot - perhaps even your Knockouts.

Frequently, I am asked about pruning roses - both Knockouts and traditional teas or floribundas. Here is some advice that is generally appropriate for all roses:

Some fundamental practices of pruning roses correctly in all gardens, regardless of type, are: 1) remove any canes that have been damaged by insects, diseases or storms; 2) remove one of two canes which may be rubbing one another; or 3) remove canes that are spindly or smaller in diameter than the size of a pencil.

On all roses, consider the cutting of the flowers as a form of pruning. If you are gathering roses, always leave at least two sets of leaves on the branch from which you cut the flower to insure plant vigor. When removing faded, spent flowers, cut only as far as the first five-leaflet leaf. If cutting on the ends of branches, cut at 45 degree angles above an outside bud 1/2 inch above the bud with the lowest point on the side opposite the bud, but not below the bud itself. If you are removing branches, never leave stubs since these die and can cause problems on the plant later. Always remove branches by cutting to a lateral branch or bud, or back to the base of the rose plant. Prune about 3 to 4 weeks before the average date of the last killing frost - approximately March 1 in the Atlanta area.

Knockouts (and soon other hybrid cultivars called Oso Easy on the market 2010) are low maintenance and require only steps 1 and 2 above, but if you deadhead them back to the first set of healthy 5-leaves, you will be rewarded with a blooms all the way through the Autumn season.

Lyn